My Attempt at McCall's Carpathia Corset

My Attempt at McCall's Carpathia Corset


I ordered this McCall's Cosplay pattern on-line because my local fabric store didn't have one (and I could be wrong, but I think maybe this is one that is only available on-line)and I was excited to see a neck corset pattern.

I was also excited to see that the floral fabric chosen for the pattern image, is one of the floral brocade coutil fabrics that Farthingales sells. It's going to take a few months as I have many other commitments, but I plan to make both the corset and the collar. I'll be posting about my experience here, so this is Chapter One of my McCall's Carpathia story.

The first thing I want to say is that this is not a pattern for someone who has not sewn much or has little experience with sewing patterns, on the flip side this is a pleasant challenge for those who are experienced.

Having made many, many corsets and developed corset making techniques and taught corset making to several hundred people (I've also got a corset class on the on-line class platform Blueprint/Craftsy which no longer exists -June 2020) I see corset making as a more streamlined process than is outlined in the directions. I've read the instructions all the way through - (I strongly recommend that everyone do this and never assume you know how a pattern was planned to be put together.) and I've had a few thoughts:

  • when using coutil - you don't need interfacing to help stabilize or strengthen the fabric, so I skipped this step 
  • they suggest 4 types of boning - I usually use two, but am not commenting on this until I get to the point of needing bones as it could be that I agree. 
  • I rarely line a corset because my finishing technique leaves my corsets as clean and tidy on the inside as they are on the outside and...adding a lining adds time. I may find I have to add a lining to this one, though I'm hoping to avoid it. 
  • lacing tape is mentioned on the pattern back in the supplies section but it's not referred to in the instructions.There is a blog post here that explains how to use it. 

The method of busk application suggests you create the hole for the busk knobs and apply seam sealant. My experience indicates that you need to get the busk knobs in place before adding the sealant otherwise you may find your holes are too small to get the knob through. AND, if you are using coutil you may not even need the sealant. 

Despite these minor personal issues I like the pattern style and am looking forward to working through it. At the moment I have all my pieces sewn together for each side, but have to stop for today.

I've used red Petersham for the waist-stay.

I serged the raw edges so I could avoid the need for a lining.

There are great curves of the hips.

Reading next

Headpiece Using German Plastic Boning
Supply List for Under-Bust Corset Patterns by Farthingales

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