Truly Victorian Edwardian Corset
The Truly Victorian "Edwardian" corset pattern is based on historical research on corsets of 1903. It has a low full bust and long hip and creates the "Pigeon Breast" look popular at the time. It does not lend its self well to modern interpretation for fashion. To get this look there is padding required and the patterns for both bum padding and breast padding are included.
The pattern envelope includes pattern pieces for the corset that will fit a chest from 32" to 58", a waist of 19" – 45" and hip from 32" to 58" as well as bust and hip pad pattern to help create the correct silhouette.
I made this one from "diamond" coutil in a flesh tone and I embellished it with fancy stitches in pale turquoise.
The sizing of this pattern is unique and I really like the method that Truly Victorian has used; numbers are not used to indicate size, letters are. This means there is no confusion between the "size" of the pattern and the "size" we wear from a retail store AND we can escape the stress that numbers can cause when we think we wear a size 12 but need a size 20 pattern. The size I've made is "G", which according to the chart is for a 32" waist.
I glued the pattern to card stock – something I always do, then cut along the lines indicated for a size "G". The lines are clearly indicated and the pattern is very professional looking – I almost didn't want to cut into it because it looked so flawless.
Instructions for this pattern are not extensive but it is not a hard corset to make. I opted not to include a lining and to use just one layer of coutil, I chose a flesh tone diamond brocade coutil.
I embellished the hip gore pieces before sewing them into the corset and I embellished the center backs before putting them together but all the other embellishing occurred after the pieces were put together. Some of my embellishment was as simple as top stitching in a contrast colour.
I used flesh colour bone casing tape to cover the raw seams and used bias strips of the "diamond" coutil to bind the top and bottom edges. I'd been a bit concerned that the coutil bias would be too thick and hard to manage but it worked beautifully and easily.
I made a size "G" which is pretty much the middle of the sizes and I required the following items:
|13" busk||1 pair||91-8550-13|
|bone casing 1/2"||5m||34-7212-20|
|grommets size oo||30||60-8820N-kit|
|spring steel bones 36cm||2||50-8308-36|
|spring steel bones 34cm||4||50-8308-34|
|spring steel bones 32cm||4||50-8308-32|
|spring steel bones 35cm||4||50-8308-35|
|spring steel bones 33cm||2||50-8308-33|