Hoop steel is a cornerstone material in the making of Civil War hoop skirts, Elizabethan farthingales and Victorian bustles, valued for its ability to provide structure without compromising the garment's natural movement. Whether you're crafting a structured mascot body or a historical undergarment, understanding the differences between hoop steel sizes, types and accessories will help you select the right product for your project.
What Makes Hoop Steel Different from Boning
While boning typically comes in prefinished lengths for use in a corset, some does come sold by the meter and is appropriate for bustles and hoops. Hoops usually run perpendicular to the body and support fabric away from the body (think mascot body or hoop skirt - the hoop steel supports these shapes). Boning is used to keep fabric close to the body - as in corsets or bodices. Hoop steel's strength lies in its spring ability. You need to use "spring steel" for hoops. Spring steel always wants to spring out straight, so when encased in a shape it pushes out against the casings to maintain that shape. Spring steel has memory unlike plastic (which will not spring back out to keep the shape if it's - example: stuffed in a suitcase). Sit down, walk through a narrow doorway - the spring steel hoop will collapse as needed and then spring right back into the original shape. Spring steel flex is essential for comfort and longevity. Hoops made of spring steel are incredibly durable as they are not inclined to get bent out of shape.
Common Hoop Steel Sizes
6mm & 7mm spring steel - hoop steel: The 6mm hoop steel that Farthingales sells can be used for a bustle or hoop skirt - you may need more wires than you would were you using wider steel. It's strong yet flexible, so it's narrow and supportive. 6mm & 7mm are both approximately 1/4".
Note: there are "U" tips for both these sizes of steel so that you can blunt the sharp ends. There are also hoop connectors for the 6mm hoop steel - more about these later.
10mm hoop steel/spring steel: Not quite 1/2 inch wide this is a very popular steel for for Civil War gowns, wedding gowns and Mascot Body structures. Wider than the 6mm with a similar fexibility it offers the support needed for a full skirt (average Civil Ward hoops will require 30 meters (33yards) to create about 10 hoops). A 30 meter coil of this will feel surprisingly heavy but when built into the skirt the skirt will practically float! You can sit in the passenger seat of the car wearing your hoop skirt and when you get out it will just pop into the hoop shape! Here we've used the 10mm hoop steel with a Farthingale pattern...with a modern twist.
To make hoops easily Farthingales invented hoop connectors; simply slide the cut ends into the connector. There are also "U" tips available for this size steel, because some hoops are open hoops. 
14mm hoop steel/spring steel: The strongest option in our range, offering maximum support and shape retention. It's designed to support heavy fabrics - think upholstery fabric for an Elizabethan farthingale, theatrical pieces, or garments intended to endure frequent intense movement. Heavy spring steel requires careful handling during construction as it's strong - but delivers uncompromising performance. Connectors are also available for this size steel.
Width and Thickness Considerations
Hoop steel comes in various widths and thickness. Smaller thickness means the steel is more flexible (thickness - not width). More flexible means tighter curves can be accomplished (think bustle). So, use the less thick spring steel for a bustle or other small item with tighter curves. The 14mm hoop steel is too thick/strong to make a bustle. Thickness affects both flexibility and strength—thinner gauges offer more give, while thicker gauges provide maximum structure. Balance these factors based on your garment's intended use.
Choosing the Right Hoop Steel for Your Project
Making a bustle you'll want lighter weight steel and the "U" tips to blunt the ends. We have 5mm and 7mm hoop wire which would work well for bustles and there are "U" tips to fit both. The 7mm hoop steel comes in two weights/thickness - be sure to get the lighter weight (thinner).
Making a Civil War style cage crinoline you'll want to use the 10mm hoop steel and the hoop connectors that fit, along with the right "U" tips so you can make both open and closed hoops.
Making an Elizabethan farthingale use the 14mm hoop steel and the hoop connectors. There are no tips for this size steel but there are not typically open hoops for this garment.
The above is a general "rule of thumb". Test your chosen hoop steel with your selected fabrics and configuration before committing to a full project. The interplay between all structural elements determines the final garment's comfort and longevity.
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