Simplicity Corset Pattern #9769
Authentic Civil War Corset, Chemise and Drawers

The first photo is the Simplicity Corset in the largest size available, size 20. I used our brocade coutil # 74-1144-01 to get a similar look as in the pattern photo and bone casing tape rather than Twill or Prussian tape. Bone casing tape is a flattened tube and encases the bone on all sides which keeps the risk of bones working holes through the fabric to a minimum. Coutil is fabric that has been designed for corset making, it is tightly woven, not inclined to stretch and is made of natural fibers.

Rather than steel boning I used plastic whale bone # 91-8140-07 for all except the centre back bones as this makes a lighter weight corset and the lengths can be cut to fit the casings with scissors. If you wear a C cup bra or larger, steel is recommended over plastic in order to get the support required. In the center back we did use steel, #50-8308-28 a 3/8" steel rather than ½" as that is what we stock. White eyelets were set using #00 size eyelets #54-8600-01 and set with kit #54-8600-kit.

In all photos that include the hoop petticoat, and at right, the corset is a size 14 and made of our most basic coutil # 74-1141-01. The grommets used were size #0 as they are available in an inexpensive kit we sell # 60-8810-kit. The lacing is our flat, cotton, lacing item # 18-7178-01 with tips #20-7070-00 added to the ends. The silk trim was scrap I had in my sewing box.

The corset went together fairly easily although I did not flat fell the seams as suggested. My reason for omitting this step was the fact that the seams all get covered by bone casing tape and flat felling curved seams is not only difficult but often results in puckers (at least when I do it). I did press the seams in the direction suggested and I did trim the seam allowances to ¼" and ½". I placed the bone casing tape along the stitching of the seam so that my stitching of the bone casing tape would always be equal distance from the seam, which provides a neater appearance from the outside.

One thing that is important and you should watch for is the fact that the pattern pieces are not marked "top" and "bottom" and it is very important to ascertain which is which before you get started. To do this, cut the pieces of the pattern out of the tissue, lay them on a table in front of you starting with the #19 on your left, note that it has a "waist" marking on it and the piece number is at the top of the pattern piece. Now put the pieces in sequence with all piece numbers at the top. When you pin the pattern pieces to the fabric mark the number and "T" for top in the seam allowance at the top of each piece, it will help you to keep track of the pieces as they are not easily identifiable. I find it best if I can leave the pieces in order on the table, remove the pattern pieces and pin the pieces together in order right then. I was given a "tip" after I was done and that was to stitch the seams alternating from top to bottom and bottom to top to "Keep the garment true." Be sure to read all instructions.

If you are wondering how this corset pattern compares with that of Laughing Moon, they are quite different. This pattern is for a single layer corset and is quite short in length while the Laughing Moon pattern offers two styles in double or single layers of coutil. The Laughing Moon pattern is drafted to accommodate varying breast size/ cup size as we know it today.